















CALIFORNIA 

BELGIAN HARE 

ASSOCIATION 

MANUAL AND COOK BOOK 

For Both Veteran Breeders and Beginners 

A STANDARD TREATISE ON BREEDING, 
FEEDING, MANAGEMENT, DISEASES, 
COOKING, ETC, 

XX 

Price 25 Cents 

Copyrighted 1900 , by Corbett & Langley 

U 


McBrid# Press, 316 W. Second St., Los Angeles, Cal, 










































W. M. Rank 
P resident 


F. W. Van Sicklin 

Vice-President 


Geo. H. Mastick 

Secretary 


CALIFORNIA ’cw 
BELGIAN HARE 
ASSOCIATION 

CAPITAL STOCK, S25,000 

Importers, Breeders and Jobbers 
of 

Belgian Hares 

LIBERAL TERMS TO THE TRADE 


We have a larger stock of IMPORTED and HIGH GRADE 
animals than any other company or individual in America. 

All animals and pedigrees guaranteed as represented or 
money refunded. 

Give us a trial order and we will surely satisfy you. 

Geo. A. Young, Manager, 

Alameda, Cal. 






0 > 


THE BELGIAN HARE INDUSTRY. 


ORIGIN OF THE VARIETY. 


It is a fact beyond a doubt that the first specimens of this 
breed came from Belgium, but judging from the stock now in 
that country, a vast improvement has taken place under the 
skillful management, judicious matings, and the introduction 
of the blood of other varieties of the rabbit by the English 
fanciers, who chose the wild hare of England as their ideal. 
They have succeeded in producing an animal with the multi¬ 
plying qualities of the rabbit and with the color and graceful 
outlines of the wild hare. To accomplish this has taken many 
years and the change has not been brought about in a hap¬ 
hazard way but by untiring and skillful selection. But there 
is yet a field here for American breeders, the Belgian not yet 
being a perfected animak 

The features, in our opinion, that call for the greatest im¬ 
provements are the ticking, the ear lacing and the the general 
symmetry. Considerable attention also may be paid to the 
eye, as we have never yet seen a Belgian with an eye equal in 
size and boldness to that of the wild hare of England. This 
will be a difficult feature to secure on account of the different 
conditions under which the two races live. 

California breeders are at some disadvantage in this work, 
not having, up to the present time, a wild hare for comparison. 




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PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION 


The unprecedented demand for the first edition of this treat¬ 
ise showed the firm hold that the Belgian hare industry has 
taken, not only upon the people of the Pacific coast, but of the 
entire country, for its circulation has been as wide as the con¬ 
tinent. This demand is proof also of the intrinsic value of the 
unpretentious work. It may be added that the book has re¬ 
ceived the highest endorsement by Belgian hare breeders every¬ 
where and by the press of all the states where this beautiful 
and useful animal has gained recognition. 

This second edition is issued with the sincere hope that its 
teachings may add still more to the development of intelligent 
rabbit breeding, and in a still greater degree promote an interest 
bearing so directly upon the welfare of the people. 

The authors had anticipated enlarging the scope of a second 
edition by embracing a treatise upon the other breeds of the 
rabbit that are recognized in Europe as worthy the attention 
of fanciers and utilitarians. This design has been postponed 
to a later date, however, in order to meet, promptly, the call 
for a knowledge of the Belgian in new and widely extended 
circles. 

With due thanks to an appreciative public, w r e now present 
the second edition of the New Century Belgian Hare 
Manual and Cook Book. 


The Authors. 








but must base their work in this line on the appearance of the 
prize-winning Belgians imported from England. It will not be 
long, however, before this difficult}^ will be removed as Mr. H. 
Langley intends bringing over a pair of specimens the coming 
summer, and we understand that a few other breeders are also 
intending to import specimens. With these as unerring 
guides, and with a liberal exercise system and our favorable 
climatic conditions, important improvements may be anticipat¬ 
ed, especially as we begin with the best stock that England 
has produced. 

It has been satisfactorily proven that the Belgian is not a 
hybrid —a cross between the Belgian rabbit and the English 
hare. All experiments to make this cross have resulted in 
utter failure, and the hybrid fallacy^ is fully exploded. 

CLIMATIC CONDITIONS. 

While it is true that California, and the Pacific coast gener¬ 
ally, enjoys the most equable climate so far as the seasons are 
concerned, and that neither tropical nor zero weather prevails 
at any time of year, yet we are subject to great variations of 
temperature. At mid-day it is often extremely warm, yet 
toward morning and until sunrise the mercury indicates de¬ 
grees very near the freezing point. Near the coast, especially, 
fogs are sometimes prevalent. A chilling wind comes on 
making outdoor life extremely uncomfortable. Hares, like 
human beings, find these changes and extremes hard to bear 
unless protected by warm quarters that may be shaded at 
times and always well ventilated without draughts. 

Beyond a doubt California is the ideal home of the Belgian 
hare but there will be discouraging losses and failures unless 
climatic conditions and the nature of the hare receive proper 
consideration. 


4 

These remarks very properly bring us to a consideration of 
THE RABBITRY. 

It need not be an expensive or ornate affair, but may be if 
the owner can afford it and has the taste and desire. So far as 
success in breeding is concerned the rabbitry may be a very 
cheap concern, but it should be convenient and as convenient¬ 
ly located as possible ; and it must be so constructed as to pro¬ 
mote the health and thrift of the occupants. It must be large 
enough to give due room to the number to be reared and 
handled. The roof must be good enough to protect from rain 
and high enough above the runs or hutches to protect from the 
burning rays of the summer sun, and give plenty of air space 
above the pens. There is no rigid and exact size for runs and 
hutches, but there should be room enough in them to secure a 
certain amount of freedom and exercise. They should not be 
prisons, but homes for the pets. The location, also, will be 
entirely governed by circumstances. We speak, of course, of 
the smaller rabbitries, such as men and women of limited 
grounds and means must content themselves with. If there is 
a barn or a shed upon the place it may well be utilized. If 
there is acreage property and the buildings are to be erected 
exclusively for the purpose the case is entirely different. 
Select dry ground for the structure, make close walls, or walls 
that may be closed to the windward; cover tightly but give top 
ventilation and light, and leave no place for the chilling 
cross-draughts that always render breeding an uncertain busi¬ 
ness. 

Stiufy comfort and healthfulness, not style. A very ex¬ 
pensively built rabbi try may prove the most poorly adapted to 
the business; a very inexpensive outfit, scientifically' construct¬ 
ed, will always come out at the head of the heap in results. 


5 


It is useless to give figures as to the cost of buildings, 
hutches, etc. One’s locality, probable business, room, purse, 
etc., will determine style and expenditure. Build for health, 
convenience, comfort and profit. 

It may be added here that top ventilation of the rabbitry 
alone is not sufficient, but it will hardly do to depend upon 
open doors or slides at ends or sides for ground ventilation. 
It is too risky. An excellent way to admit pure air at the 
bottom is in vogue in some parts of England. This arrange¬ 
ment is thus described by Mr. Wilkins: 

‘ ‘ Get a tin worker to make you a number of zinc pipes, 
about three inches in diameter, and three feet long. They 
should have an elbow six inches long of the same diameter. 
To fix them, cut circular holes in the sides of your rabbitry, 
about one foot to eighteen inches from the outside ground. 
Through these holes push the elbow of ground pipes as far as 
they will go; run the inside portion up the side wall and fix it 
with a nail. A little putty where any inequality was made in 
cutting the hole excludes all draught and carries off all foul 
air and gasses.” 

The number of pipes will depend upon the size of the build¬ 
ing, but have one or more on each of the sides. Of course 
these are needed only when the close system of keeping is 
adopted. The advocates of open air rabbitries will not see the 
use of such an arrangement. In our opinion the more fresh 
air given to the hares the better for them. Outside runs, 
therefore, are beneficial to acclimated animals, but for those 
brought from other localities where more protection has been 
given cannot be changed abruptly to open quarters with im¬ 
punity. Their progeny may be brought readily to do well in 
the open air runs, but the change must be gradual. The final 
result will be that we shall have, here, a much hardier race 



\ 


than we are now beginning -with. Until that change is 
wrought, due and constant care must be exercised. 

A COMBINATION SYSTEM. 

Discussion of the respective merits of indoor and outdoor 
runs in this climate continues, and there are strenuous advo¬ 
cates of both. For exhibition purposes alone it is not likely 
that the outside hutches will win. Color is a chief requisite in 
show specimens and color suffers by exposure. It is our 
opinion, borne out by experiment and observation, that a com¬ 
bination of the two systems will prove the proper thing. 
This consists of a double run, one-half within a rather 
close rabbitry and having a board floor, the other run outside 
and having an earth floor with wire underneath to prevent 
escape by burrowing. A circular hole through the side of the 
rabbitry affords easy access to either run. Draughts are pre¬ 
vented by hanging small round curtains of canvas, or any 
material, over the openings. These can easily be pushed aside 
by the hares. This opening can also have a sliding door of 
wood. In dry weather the hares can be given the advantage 
of the earth run, while in cold, foggy or rainy weather they 
get ready protection inside the rabbitry. This arrangement 
seems well worth the attention of breeders. Another advant¬ 
age is that in cleaning the hutches the hares may be confined 
to one portion of the run while the other is being attended to. 

SIZE OF HUTCHES. 

There is no exact size of hutch that may be said to be best. 
Earge ones are preferable, but do not make them smaller than 
five feet long, two feet wide and two feet high. If one has 
plenty of room, increase the dimensions. Belgians do well in 
small quarters, but are better if given more commodious ones. 


7 

ADVICE TO BEGINNERS. 

To the person intending to begin rabbit breeding, be it 
adult or youth, we would urge upon him or her the importance 
of visiting as many rabbitries as possible. Make a thorough 
study of the business as it is carried on by the best breeders 
accessible. Really successful rabbit rearing depends very 
largely upon experience. Accept that of others as far as possi¬ 
ble. It will save time. Study failures as well as successes. 
But remember above all things that actual practice and not 
theories must be the final guide. Do not think for a moment 
that you understaud everything after a tour of investigation 
among established concerns. You do not see it all and you 
never will until you begin work, and then your rabbitry will 
prove a perpetual school without holiday or vacation. Sub¬ 
scribe for papers devoted to the business, read all the books 
upon the subject available, join a Hare club, discuss methods 
and principles with others in the business and bring observation 
and common sense to your aid. No man can claim to know it 
all. Do not be afraid to enter upon experiments of your own; 
each lesson learned thereby is an important one. 

Hare breeding is a fascinating business when once fairly 
entered upon, and thorough care and attention are repaid by a 
higher degree of both profit and pleasure. 

DRINKING WATER. 

Some authorities have recommended giving hares a very 
limited amount of water. This is an error. The Belgian ; 
naturally a free consumer of water. California breed* 
especially, have found a plentiful supply essential. It is 
best to give water at stated periods but to keep it before tl 
all the time. Use earthenware vessels and keep them cle 
also be sure that the water is pure. 


8 


FEEDING FOR EXHIBITION. 

This is a very important feature of the business. Many 
promising youngsters have been ruined by the too liberal 
allowance of bulky food, but if these instructions are followed 
the best results will be obtained: 

After weaning, which should not be before the young are 
two months old, avoid giving hay in large quantities, and let 
what little is used be well cured. Even if the best the supply 
should be limited to a handful at night. The morning meal 
should consist of a warm mash made of boiled flaxseed, 
lentils or peas (previously soaked for twenty four hours) 
mixed with sufficient shorts, feed-meal and bran, until the 
mixture will crumble in the hand (not sloppy). This should 
be seasoned with a little approved rabbit condition powder. 
This feeding of a warm mash daily is little understood here, 
but is used in England with most beneficial effects and is en¬ 
dorsed by no less an authority than Mr. T. C. Lord. To use 
his own words: “ Rabbits kept in confinement should have at 
least one warm meal once a day.” They should get nothing 
more until noon, when their troughs should be supplied with 
oats or barley, on alternate da}^s. The shorts being from 
wheat render unnecessary the wheat ration that might other¬ 
wise be given instead of barley. In the afternoon give carrots 
or other roots (except raw potatoes). Give no other green 
food except say twice a week a little dandelion, parsley or sow 
istle. Be guided by the general appearance of the hares and 
here is any indication of ‘ ‘ pot-belly ’ ’ cut down the hay and 
s. The amount of mash to be given is about 4 oz. each, or 
if they do not eat it up clean by noon. Always remove all 
a or grain that is left before giving more, that all may be 
h and clean. Give fresh, pure water twice a day. Once a 


9 


week place three drops of tincture of iron, and one grain of 
copperas (blue stone) in the drinking water. 

FEEDING FOR MEAT. 

Give mash as above but make differently. Steep the leaves 
of alfalfa hay one hour in hot water; add boiled flaxseed, with 
shorts and feed-meal equal parts, and give condition powder 
three times a week. Give hay plentifully and as much grain, 
preferably rolled barley, as they will eat, and also a variety of 
roots and green stuff in the middle of the day. Do not surfeit 
your rabbits by leaving stale food in their pens, but give them 
all the fresh food they will eat, in good variety, occasionally a 
boiled potato, and a plentiful supply of water. 

CONDITIONING FOR EXHIBITION. 

Feeding for this purpose is very essential, but that is not all 
that is required. Suitable quarters must be provided with 
fresh air and an abundance of room for exercise. The larger 
the yard the better and it should be so situated that the hares 
can see each other. This interests them and induces them to 
move about. Handle them carefully every day, groom them 
with a soft brush and cloth, and a few days before the show 
apply a little Brilliantine with your hands. This will impart 
a beautiful gloss to their coat. Teach the rabbit to stretch 
and pose on a table or box. Give this treatment daily. The 
Belgian being an intelligent animal soon becomes accustomed 
to these manipulations and apparently enjoys them. If your 
stock possesses good qualities the above directions will serve to 
bring them before the judges and the award will not go else¬ 
where on account of “condition.” 


IO 


FOOD FOR BREEDING DOES. 

When it is decided to use a doe for breeding purposes some 
slight alterations in the menu are necessary to obtain the best 
results. Give more hay, a greater variety of green food and 
increase the mash. But care must be taken not to get her too 
fat before kindling as sometimes that has proved fatal, 
although a liberal allowance of nutritious food, when nursing, 
is needed to provide a good milk supply for the young and to 
prevent the doe from running down in condition. With the 
above bread and milk is not necessary as the mash will answer 
that purpose, being much safer and more beneficial. Plenty 
of water must be given at this period. Milk is good as an 
extra, if sterilized. 

Avoid the common mistake of breeding too young, which is 
practiced so much by inexperienced people, especially in this 
country where the animals develop so rapidly but lack stamina 
up to a certain age and cannot impart it to their offspring. 
Their constitutions break down, their milk supply is not equal 
to the requirements of the young, who are forced to eat food 
which their undeveloped organs cannot digest. Slobbers and 
other ailments follow. To avoid this do not mate until prop¬ 
erly matured. From experiments we find the best results have 
been obtained from does six to twelve, and bucks from eight 
to twelve months. The doe should always visit the buck as 
the service is more satisfactory, and should be removed as soon 
as possible to a quiet pen with subdued light, with plenty of 
clean straw for bedding and with the darkest corner partitioned 
off for a nest with a board four inches high just to keep the 
straw from falling out, but with no top. Very little exercise 
is necessary at this period as it is best for the muscles to relax. 
After kindling let one day elapse, then remove all over six 


young, giving the surplus to a nurse doe, putting the large 
ones together, as they will prevent the weaker ones from getting 
their proper amount of milk. Leave them with the does until 
two month old. 


MEAT STOCK 

Require but limited quarters, as an abundance of exercise 
would only defeat the object to be obtained. Bone and sinew 
instead of meat and fat would be the result. Their small 
hutches should be kept clean and occasionally disinfected as 
this stock is more liable to disease because of an indolent dis¬ 
position and their large consumption of nutritious food. When 
four to six months of age hares make the most acceptable 
food. The bucks should be castrated just as soon as the 
testicles “come down.” The work of castration is simple. Let 
a helper spread a burlap sack or other cloth over his lap ; lay 
the hare upon this between his legs, head toward his body 
and the hind legs extending beyond his knees. Let him take 
a hind foot in each hand, spreading the hare’s legs apart. The 
operator, a sharp knife in hand, grasps a testicle between the 
thumb and finger of the left hand, and slits the scrotum 
lengthwise. The testicle will exude. It is taken firmly, drawn 
out and severed below the red part adhering ; the cord also is 
severed near the body when well drawn out. To keep off 
insects and aid in healing at once apply vaseline, upon which 
has been dropped a little turpentine. A person can do this 
work single handed by inserting the head, and most of th 
body, in a boot-leg or similar case. Another advantage 
castration is that the does and bucks can be kept togefi 
Otherwise they must be separated at an early age. 


12 


BREEDING FOR POINTS. 

Select the best specimens possible and be sure they are in 
good health and condition, and remember it is quite as im¬ 
portant that the does possess points of excellence as well as the 
bucks. Never mate two animals that are lacking in the same 
particular or the young will follow suit. One very good 
principle is to select a doe with good ticking, shape and fine 
bone, and a buck with good color, symmetry, a bold eye and 
plenty of vigor. With these qualities well defined, the result 
should be very satisfactory. Avoid inbreeding as much as 
possible if you desire to build up a vigorous strain. We mean, 
of course, close inbreeding, for it is an indisputable fact that 
judicious inbreeding has resulted in greatly improving the 
Belgian. But efforts in this direction must be most carefully 
conducted. 

CARE OF THE YOUNG. 

Do not wean until two months old, and if left longer with 
the doe they will be better for it; it seems that as long as they 
are getting their mother’s milk few T ailments befall them. Re¬ 
move them to a large, well sheltered yard with warm nest box 
and plenty of straw. This is the time when exercise is most 
beneficial to develop the long, racy forms that are so desirable. 
At about three months divide the sexes, putting the males in 
one yard and the females in another. The does usually agree 
together for some time. The bucks sooner or lat show a dis¬ 
position to quarrel. When this takes place they must be ban- 
shed to separate compartments. (See Feeding for Exhibition.) 

PROTECTION FROM SUN. 

this climate of almost perpetual sunshine there must be 
protection from the strong light of mid-day sun, both on 


1 3 


account of the eyes of the hare and to enable them to retain in 
perfection the rich, deep color that is so desirable in high-class 
specimens. Hares suffer intensely from heat and during mid¬ 
summer should be allowed a rest from breeding that their 
strength may not be impaired, and they must also be allowed 
shade and the quarters kept as cool as possible and without 
draughts. 


DISEASES. 


If the methods set forth in this book are put into practice 
there will be little use for the following remedies. Our object 
is to guide aright those contemplating going into the business 
either for pleasure or profit. They will find an abundance of 
both, but for those who are unfortunate enough to have sick 
rabbits the following will be found efficient, simple and com¬ 
paratively inexpensive if judiciously applied. The Belgian 
hare when suffering from sickness is a frail, tender and timid 
animal, and we are sorry to say there are at present some harsh 
and irritating medicines on the market, which only tend to 
increase the suffering. We will take the diseases in alphabet¬ 
ical order: 

Accesses. These come from various causes (either impure 
blood or hereditary), over-feeding, from a scratch or bite, 
bruise, etc. An abcess generally makes its appearance on the 
surface and develops rapidly. These are easily treated and are 
not particularly dangerous. But those that form internally 
generally prove fatal as they are not discovered until too late. 
Treatment: When ripe clip the fur from off the swelling, then 
open with a lance. Squeeze out all the pus as tenderly as pos¬ 
sible. Wash with warm water and permanganate of potassium. 
Dissolve one grain in a pint of water. Dust the wound with 
iwers of sulphur. Repeat every day until cured. 



15 


Blindness of Young. This is generally caused by the ammo¬ 
nia rising from the dung and urine in the hutch. It will be 
noticed that the eye is closed and swollen. Bathe it with warm 
milk and water, carefully pressing it open. After thoroughly 
cleansing and drying it with a soft rag, apply white ointment 
or vaseline. Repeat daily. 

Caked Udder. Feed sparingly for a few days and rub gently 
with marshmallow ointment, first sponging the udder with 
warm water and wiping dry. 

Canker in Ear. This may be detected by a discharge from 
the ear and by the rabbit holding its head to one side. It is 
very painful and requires careful treatment. Clean the inside 
of the ear with a damp cloth or sponge, then apply a lotion of 
sulphate of zinc 12 grs., water two ounces, wine of opium one 
drachm; half a teaspoonful poured into the ear twice a day. 
Keep rabbit warm and feed nutritious food. 

Cold in the Eyes. If the eyes are inflamed and running, 
bathe twice a day with lukewarm water and sulphate of zinc, 2 
grs. to 1 ounce of water. 

Cough. Remove from draughts, give plenty of straw for 
bedding; also one teaspoonful of cough mixture and milk— 
half of each—twice a day. 

Constipation. Symptoms: Sitting in a corner, loss of 
appetite, body sometimes swollen, also notice by the absence 
of any droppings. If green food fails to give any relief, give 
half a teaspoonful of syrup of figs or castor oil twice a day 
until relieved. 

Diseased Liver. If the liver is diseased, it can be cured in 
the early stages, but if in an advanced stage it is better to kill 
the animal than try to prolong its misery. It is generally 
caused by injudicious feeding, creating a parasite called a 


i6 

fluke, which causes the liver to decay more or less rapidly, 
according to the constitution of the rabbit. The most notice¬ 
able symptom is heavy breathing and sometimes accompanied 
by a noise. There are several remedies, but the most appro¬ 
priate is half a grain of calomel every twelve hours, fresh air, 
comfortable quarters and a tonic mixed with the food. 

Dropsy — Pot-Belly. This is more prevalent in the young 
and is caused by insufficient exercise and an excess of bulky 
food, irregularly supplied. It is readily detected by the swell¬ 
ing of the lower part of the body. Unless checked in time it 
proves fatal. Treatment: Discontinue succulent food and 
substitute dry grain and bread toasted brown; also put a piece 
of scorched bread in the drinking water sufficient to give it 
the appearance of strong tea. Fresh air and exercise will do 
the rest. If the appetite is poor tempt with a carrot, dandelion 
or sprig of parsley. 

Ear Gum. Remove the wax with some blunt instrument, 
or a quill. Do it carefully. Drop in the ear a little laudanum 
and sweet oil, warmed, three parts oil to one of laudanum. If 
a slight case sprinkle flowers of sulphur into the ear. 

Eruptions. The skin becomes scaly and later small sores 
break out and the hair falls off. Cause: Bad condition and 
impure blood. Treatment: Apply to the sores either carbol- 
ated vaseline or white zinc ointment. Give a mild cathartic, 
followed by a blood purifier. Half a teaspoonful of castor oil 
will do well for physic, and the condition powder in the food 
will change the blood so that a cure will be effected soon. 

Festers. May be caused by a bite or scratch, or even by 
getting dirt in the wound. Treat as recommended for abcess 
and keep the blood pure. 


i7 


Fits. The hare will stagger and sometimes fall, then come 
convulsions and utter prostration. Taken in time little harm 
results. In most cases the trouble can be traced to stagnation 
of the blood, or indigestion. The remedy is 2 grs. powdered 
camphor in a teaspoon of warm water, twice a day; decrease as 
the patient improves. Keep the bowels open and the blood in 
good condition. 

Inflammation of Uterus. This results from improper mating. 
If specimens of proper age and size are mated the trouble does 
not occur. It is a disease slow of cure. There are several 
remedies, one of the best being one drachm sulphate of zinc 
and one drachm laudanum dissolved in a pint of distilled 
water. Bathe the parts with this lotion, lukewarm, once a day 
until inflammation subsides, then every other day until cured. 
Wipe the parts dry after washing as the lotion is poisonous 
and the doe may lick it off. 

Insects. These pests are rarely troublesome unless the hares 
are in very poor condition and are kept in filthy hutches. 
Apply Persian insect powder and give clean bedding often. 

Looseness and Diarrhoea. Young stock are most liable to 
this trouble. It is caused by too much green food or other 
improper feeding. Treatment: Do not make the common 
mistake of giving some severe astringent, but assist nature. 
Give three times a day a teaspoonful of warm milk slightly 
thickened with arrowroot or flour and add a little ground cin¬ 
namon. Feed dry food for a few days. 

Loss of Appetite. Arises from many causes and generally 
precedes all ailments. Be guided by what appears to be the 
most likely cause, as the cure of any complaint will usually 
restore appetite. If the trouble does not arise from diarrhoea 
the hare may be tempted by a little dandelion or milk-weed. 


i8 


This will lead to a desire for other food. Then condition 
powder, in the grain ration, will fully restore the appetite. 

Mange. This is infectious and hard to cure. If the animal 
attacked is not a very valuable one it had best be killed. The 
simplest and most effective remedy is flowers of sulphur, 
sprinkled all over the animal once a day; also give a little in 
the food. 

Moulting. This period is a critical stage of young hare life. 
With good care and proper treatment though they will pull 
through. Keep warm, give plenty of clean straw bedding and 
give nutritious food; increase the warm mash to twice a day. 

Paralysis. Give prompt treatment on the first indications of 
this disease. Remove the patient to warm quarters and to a 
board floor. Give, once a day, a pill made up of 2 grs. cam¬ 
phor and one grain sulphate of iron; add enough powdered 
licorice and honey to make one pill. Gently rub the back 
from shoulder to rump with some good liniment or plain 
eucalyptus oil, every other day. Feed nutritious food. 

Pneumonia. Lung fever is one of the most dangerous 
diseases that rabbits are subject to and in many instances 
proves fatal. But the following treatment has been found 
effective if applied in the early stages. It is classified thus : 
First, congestion of the pulmonary membrane with dryness ; 
second, engorgement ; third, hepatization ; fourth, purulent 
infiltration. Symptoms : The first stage is the skin hot and 
day, the pulse and respiration frequent—generally accompani¬ 
ed with restlessness. The duration of this stage does not ex¬ 
ceed 24 hours. The second stage will be distinguished by a 
slight noise, if the chest be listened to closely, resembling that 
of a lock of one’s own hair rubbed between the finger and 
thumb close to the ear. Treatment. A cathartic of calcined 


i9 


magnesia is of advantage in unloading and cleansing the 
stomach, preparing it for the absorption of medicines. Dose, 
about 3 grs. Then give i drop of tincture of veratrum viride 
in a teaspoonful of warm water every four hours. In addition 
a teaspoonful of warm lemonade will be of great assistance. 
The rabbit should be removed to a warm room and wrapped 
in flannel. A small piece of flannel should be wrung out of 
hot water and sprinkled with a teaspoonful of veratrum 
and applied to the chest; remove before getting cold. Reduce 
the treatments as the patient improves. 

Red Water Is an affection of the kidneys and needs prompt 
attention. It is caused by cold, dampness or improper food. 
The urine will be dark and the animal out of sorts generally. 
If not too sick to eat give mash as heretofore recommended, 
but having in it an extra amount of flax seed; also give green 
parsley and three drops of sweet spirits of nitre in a teaspoon 
of warm water, once a day, until the urine is of a natural color. 
A week should see the trouble removed. 

Scurf. Treat about the same as mange, which in some par¬ 
ticulars it resembles. 

Slobbers. All breeders are more or less familiar with this 
ailment and many remedies have been presented with varying 
results. It is most prevalent among young stock. We ascribe 
the cause to this: Reaving too many for the does to raise. 
Those failing to get sufficient nourishment are forced from 
sheer hunger to help themselves to food from the pen. This 
they are unable to digest and with the small amount of milk 
'~nrs in the stomach, causing a flow of saliva from the mouth. 



re same thing will happen if the doe has only a few young 
\ nurse, if she is improperly fed—that is, does not get the 
\t milk producing ingredients. Treatment: Give half tea- 


20 


spoonful doses of syrup of figs until bowels move freely; wash 
outside the mouth and jaws with warm alum water tw T ice a day. 
This tends to contract the glands and stop the flow of saliva. 
Feed mash with half teaspoon of condition powder to every 
four ounces. Do not give any food hard to digest for a few 
days. Taken in time all will go well. 

Snuffles. Two kinds of snuffles are known in the rabbitry. 
One results from a simple cold in the head and yields to treat¬ 
ment in a few days; the other is hereditary, or chronic, and by 
constant application can be considerably reduced in severity 
and the patient may live for years. This form is infectious— 
that is, a well animal eating or drinking from the same vessel 
as the sick one would be liable to contract the disease, but 
those in adjoining pens would be perfectly safe from infection. 
Remove the patient to a warm hutch previously disinfected 
but perfectly dry. Give one of these powders three times a 
day, separate from food, either wet or dry, with a teaspoon: 
Powdered licorice 36 grains, powdered nitre 24 grains, 
powdered ginger 12 grains, ipecacuana 1^ grains; mix 
thoroughly and divide into twelve powders. Wash mucus 
from nose as often as it appears, with vinegar and water, equal 
parts, warm as the hand can comfortably bear. After such 
treatment dry the wet parts thoroughly. As the patient im¬ 
proves give powders and treatment less frequently. After 
three days put two grains of sulphate of copper and two drops 
tincture of iron into each quart of drinking water. In stub¬ 
born cases where the nasal discharge does not discontinue 
within a few days an excellent remedy is two drops tincture o 
aconite in the food, twice a day, and the hare will soon stc 
sneezing. Do not neglect giving the warm mash as befr 
directed in other parts of this book. Let this mash con/ 


21 


the necessary tonic to aid the system in throwing off the 
troublesome complaint. We may here quote such an eminent 
authority as W. H. Twort, of England, who says: 

“It is useless to expect any kind of irritants applied to the 
nostrils to bring about a cure.” 

Sore Hocks May be traced generally to dirty hutches, 
standing on wet dung, and sometimes to impure blood. It 
never occurs if rabbits are properly housed and fed. To cure 
wash the sores with a lotion made of sulphate of zinc two 
grains, water i ounce; apply daily, and each time apply some 
healing salve, and bandage. 

Sore Mouth. Wash the mouth twice a day—in the morning 
with salt and water; in the evening with alum water, not too 
strong. This will harden the gums and the patient will soon 
recover. 

Tape Worm. Give, twice a day, three grains areca nut 
grated, or five drops oil of male fern twice a day in a little 
sweetened water. 

Tumors . If these make their appearance it is best to kill 
the animal, as expelling the cause from the system is very dif¬ 
ficult; a surgical operation is generally necessary. 


CULINARY DEPARTMENT. 


Here, as in the other departments of this book, the authors 
have studied brevity in order to present as great a variety of 
formulas as possible. Only such methods of preparing this 
delicate, tasteful and healthful food have been chosen as have 
been found reliable. It may be remarked that, as with 
standard cooking recipes of all kinds, proportions of ingredients 
may be changed and such variations made in sauces, etc., as 
suggest themselves to the intelligent cook, or as circumstances 
may require. Remember that in frying or broiling especially, 
the meat after being washed must be wiped thoroughly with 
a dry cloth. Due credit is given to several ladies who have 
kindly contributed to this department. The other recipes are 
from chefs and caterers in this and other cities, or from standard 
English sources. 

KIEEING AND DRESSING. 

Take the hare by the hind feet, letting the head hang down¬ 
ward; strike a smart blow on the back of the head; cut the 
throat at once, letting out all of the blood. Hang up as you 
would a mutton. Run the knife around the first joint of the 
hind legs, cutting the skin, and pass the blade inside the thigh 
to the tail. With the hand separate the skin from the flesh, 
drawing the skin downward towards the head. Cut the fore 
legs off at the first joint and pull up the skin. Use the knife 



23 


carefully in skinning the head, severing it at the nose and lip 
and draw it off. Slit the belly lengthwise and remove intes¬ 
tines, excepting the kidneys. The liver and heart are to be 
saved; also the head if you wish it, first removing the eyeballs. 
Wash the body thoroughly and dry with a cloth. 

TRUSSING. 

For roasting, skewer the head tightly between the shoulders, 
then skewer the legs closely to the body. To prepare for boil¬ 
ing skewer the legs as before and draw the head to the side, 
firmly skewering to the body. 

SELECTING FOR THE TABLE. 

When using more than one hare for any particular dish al¬ 
ways chose specimens as nearly the same age as possible, 
otherwise the youngest will cook to pieces before the others 
are done. 

If purchasing dressed specimens you may determine whether 
or not the animals are young by breaking the jaw between the 
thumb and finger; if the fracture is easily made the hare is 
young. An English authority says that in a young specimen 
a little nut-like ball is to be found in the point of the paw. If 
this cannot be felt the chap is an old one only fit for pies, etc. 

If a hare has been killed recently the flesh will be dry, white 
and sweet. If old it will be blue and slimy. In young the 
coat and claws will be smooth. The opposite will be true of 
old animals. The ears of the young may be easily torn, but 
if the skin of the head has been removed of course this test 
cannot be made. Hares are tender and delicious from three to 
six months old, and older if caponized and well and rapidly 
fattened. Hare meat is better if the, animal has been left to 
hang for one day. 


24 

RECIPES FOR COOKING. 


Roast , (English .) Fill with veal forcemeat, sew up and 
truss firmly, fore-legs back and hind-legs forward, fastening 
the head in an upright position. Some line the inside with 
fat bacon before filling. Fasten bacon over the back; baste 
liberally while cooking. When partly done, dredge over with 
flour and baste again. Have the fire a hot one. Serve at 
once from oven, placing the bacon on a separate dish. 

Spanish Method. Slice one large onion, one chilli pepper, 
and four medium-sized tomatoes into a stew pan and bring to a 
boil. Cut the hare in pieces and put in as soon as it boils; 
add one teaspoon of salt and enough hot water to cover. 
When nearly done thicken with flour and add butter the size 
of an egg. 

French Method. Soak the hare over night in equal parts of 
salted vinegar and water. Put one-fourth cup of butter in a 
frying pan, add a sliced onion and fry till a light brown. 
Wipe the hare with a dry cloth, put in the pan and cover with 
claret, letting it simmer slowly for two or three hours. 

Roast with Onions, ( Creoled. ) Place a layer of onions in the 
bottom of the pan, then a layer of the meat neatly cut; add 
another layer of onions and alternate with meat until the pan 
is filled. A double roaster is best as it keeps in the steam 
more thoroughly. No water is needed, as that is furnished by 
the onions. 

Boiled. Soak fifteen minutes in warm water to draw the 
blood. Skewer as heretofore directed. Put in kettle with 
enough hot water to cover, boil until tender. (Time according 
to age.) Dish and smother with mushrooms, onions, livei 
sauce or parsley and butter, as preferred. If liver sauce is 


used, boil the liver a little while and mince or rub through a 
sieve before adding to sauce. 

Curried. Cut into joints and place in stew pan with two 
tablespoons of drippings or butter and sliced onions to suit. 
Brown well and add a pint of soup stock. Mix a tablespoon 
each of flour and curry until smooth in a little water; place in 
pan and add pepper and salt, a teaspoon of mushroom powder; 
let simmer for an hour or so. Add juice of half a lemon and 
a little parsley. Serve with boiled rice piled around it at side 
of platter. Water instead of stock may be used if the latter 
is not at hand. 

Potted. Cut in pieces and place in stone jar. Fill the space 
between meat pieces with veal and bacon, a pound each, cut to 
dice; mix with liver of hare, also cut fine; add a teaspoonful 
each of mace, cloves and black pepper and salt. Place thin 
slices of bacon on top, and a bay leaf if liked. Cover with a 
lid of plain paste made of flour and water. Set the jar in pan 
or pot containing water and bake in a slow oven. Keep from 
burning by placing a greased paper over the paste. Put no 
water to the meat. When done set away to cool, then pound 
pieces of the hare, veal and bacon to a paste, mix in gravy 
from the bottom When boiled almost dr}^. Add more seasoning 
if needed. Press solid into cups or small jugs, covering top 
with melted butter, and set away in a cool place. 

Jugged. Cut in pieces and season with pepper and salt, fry 
brown and season with a little thyme and chopped parsley, 
nutmeg, cloves, mace, grated lemon peel, and add a couple of 
anchovies. Place a layer of the pieces into a wide mouthed 
jar, then a layer of thinly sliced bacon and so on with alter¬ 
nate layers. Add two gills of water, cover and put in cold 
water, boiling three or lour hours. Remove the jar, take out 


26 


the unmelted bacon and make a gravy of a little butter, flour 
and ketchup. Some add a little grated lemon peel. 

Fricasseed. Lay the pieces in cold water a little while, drain 
well and place in saucepan with pepper and thin slices of 
pickled pork. Cover with water and let simmer for thirty 
minutes. Add chopped onion and parsley, a blade of mace 
and a clove or two if liked. Make a smooth flour paste, stir 
in and let simmer until the meat is tender, then add half a cup 
of cream. If too thin add more flour. Boil up once and 
serve hot. 

A la Maryland. This method is copied after the style of 
serving terrapin at the South Atlantic sea board. It makes a 
rare dish. Boil the pieces in a small amount of water, using 
a covered vessel to retain the steam. When thoroughly done 
pour over a cream gravy to which has been added a little Cali¬ 
fornia sherry. A flour gravy will answer if cream is not at 
hand. Serve hot. 

Fried. Use equal parts of lard and beef suet and have it 
deep enough to cover the hare. Cut in pieces. Roll in flour 
and fry in the boiling fat, turning frequently, and keep covered 
until nearly done, salting lightly after the first turning. 

Patties. Use the whitest meat and mince fine with suet. 
Braise the bones and cook in a stewpan with salt, pepper, nut¬ 
meg, grated lemon peel, etc., and let simmer until the flavor is 
secured. Thicken with flour and butter and stew until quite 
hot. Bake the patties in patty pans and half fill with the 
mince. Put on covers. The whole process will take about 
an hour. 

Pie , Raised. Cut small and season to taste with salt, pepper 
and nutmeg. Cut half a pound of bacon to dice, and when 
the raised crust is made place in dish with the meat and inter- 


27 


sperse yolks of three or four eggs. Pour over the top tomato 
sauce or some good gravy. Cover with pastry, brush with egg 
and ornament if you wish. Bake in moderate oven until a 
skewer may be easily thrust to the bottom—about an hour 
and a half. Serve either hot or cold. 

[Contributed by Mrs. Harriet F. Taylor, Instructor in Cooking.] 

Broiled. Boil in salted water for five minutes, dry and broil 
as quickly as possible. Dish on a hot platter and season with 
salt and butter. 

Liver Entree. Boil the liver until tender and cut into 
pieces. Make a brown gravy and pour over the pieces. 
Garnish with mushrooms. This makes a very delicious dish. 

Jellied. Boil until the meat will fall from the bones, and 
leave in the water over night. In the morning chop fine, 
season with butter, pepper and salt, and press in a mold until 
firm. Or, boil tender, cut in small pieces and season with 
salt and pepper. Add a half box of gelatine soaked in cold 
water to the liquor (not less than a quart) in which the hare 
was boiled; strain through thin muslin and when it begins to 
thicken, add the meat; put in molds and place on ice to 
harden. 

Hare Pie. Cut in pieces and boil until nearly done. Make 
a crust allowing a half cup of shortening, a half teaspoonful 
of baking powder, and a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of flour. 
Roll to a quarter inch. Line the sides but not the bottom of a 
deep dish with the paste ; fill with the meat, season with 
butter, salt and pepper ; fill with the liquor in which the hare 
was boiled, dredging over with flour. Cover with a thick 
crust and bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Fried. Dress a hare not over three months old. Cut it up, 
roll each piece in flour, pepper and salt and fry as you would 


28 


chicken, until nicely browned on both sides. You can use 
butter or any kind of frying fat. Keep tightly covered while 
frying to retain steam. When nicely browned, raise the cover 
and add a spoonful of water to prevent burning. Continue to 
add a little water as often as needed, keeping covered close. 
Cook three-quarters of an hour. It is delicious. 

Roast . Prepare a stuffing by chopping fine one-quarter 
pound of salt pork and a small piece of onion. Pour boiling 
water over six Boston crackers, then chop with the pork. 
Season with sage, salt and pepper, adding what boiling water 
is necessary to moisten it, and stir in one egg. Wipe dry the 
hare, fill it with the stuffing and lard with small strips of salt 
pork. Allow twenty minutes for each pound. Put a piece of 
butter as large as au egg in a cup, fill with boiling water and 
use it to baste the hare while roasting. 

[Contributed by Miss Nettie Martin.] 


STRAY HAIRS. 


Heed the advice of this treatise in the matter of feeding for 
health. Pounds of “ cure ” are expensive, ounces of preven¬ 
tion cost little. 

Renew the drinking water frequently, as if left standing 
any length of time it absorbs many impurities which are con¬ 
veyed to the system; also wash the vessels each time they are 
replenished. 

Feed the best of food; any other is poor econom3~. Decayed 
vegetables or grain, musty hay, impure or sour milk, are often 
the direct cause of disease. 




29 


If feeding a warm mash daily, or on alternate days, consist¬ 
ing in part of boiled flaxseed, and you notice a looseness of 
the bowels, discontinue the flaxseed and substitute some other 
meal for a few days. 

Provide for protection from summer heat as well as from the 
rain and cold of winter. 

Disinfectants are very essential in the rabbitry, and a safe 
and effective deodorizer, after the hutch has been well cleaned 
and washed out, is a solution of permanganate of potassium— 
about 25 grains to a quart of water. Don’t return the rabbit 
until the pen is thoroughly dried, then in order to avoid colds, 
spray the floor and sides with eucalyptus. 

If your rabbit is in good condition it w T ill not take cold so 
easily as if soft and flabby, and even if it does, it will be much 
more easily cured. 

We shall be pleased to answer any reasonable new questions 
pertaining to rabbits or rabbitries that may suggest themselves 
in the experience of our patrons. 

Breeders shipping hares to other parts of the country should 
give purchasers the manner in which they have been reared, 
that no violent changes in management may occur. 

Lentils and peas should be used sparingly in summer on 
account of their heating properties. They are especially good 
for stud bucks and for bringing does in season. 

' The authors of this treatise have in contemplation a third 
edition that shall embrace the rearing and management of the 
Flemish and other fancy varieties of rabbits likely to become 
popular in this country. Due notice of the publication will be 
given through the press. 


30 


ENGLISH WILD HARE. 

(I<epus Timidus.) 


There is no better description of the English wild hare than 
that given by Mr. Wilkins in his “Book of the Belgian Hare,” 
which is as follows: 

“ The colors and markings of a hare are really these : they 
are composed of a rich red fawn, white and black, variously 
associated and distributed ; there is a white patch both in front 
of and behind the eye, and a streak, nearly white, over the 
front of the upper eyelid ; there is white under the chin ex¬ 
tending back to the angle of the jaw, where it shows in a side 
view ; the base of the ear on the outside is white, as is a por¬ 
tion of the interior, and, when seen in profile, the w r hite of the 
belly and between the fore and hind legs is visible ; the top of 
the ear has a broad black patch and the rest of the ear is ticked 
black and brown ; the throat, chest, lower two-thirds of the 
shoulder, fore legs and feet down to the toes, are of a rich red 
chestnut without any ticking whatever, as is also a paler color 
extending from the shoulder to the flank part of the thigh, and 
dividing the white belly from the ticked back and loins ; there 
is a triangular patch of a rufus brown behind the ears and be¬ 
tween the shoulder blades, the haunch is more or less grey, 
and both these areas are free from ticking. The parts of a 
hare that are ticked are the forehead, cheeks, front of the ears, 
top of the shoulder on either side (not the middle), the back, 
loins, and top of the rump. 

‘ ‘ What Belgian breeders should strive to produce is fac¬ 
similes of the wild hare as exact in every part as possible.” 



3 1 

ENGLISH STANDARD 

ADOPTED IN AMERICA. 

COEOR—Rich rufus red (not dark, smudgy color), car¬ 
ried well down sides and hindquarters, and as little 

white under jaws as possible. 20 

TICKING—Rather wavy appearance but plentiful. 15 

SHAPE—Body long, thin, well tucked up flank, and well 
ribbed up ; back slightly arched ; loins well rounded, 
not choppy ; head rather lengthy ; muscular chest; tail 
straight, not screwed ; and altogether of a racy appear¬ 
ance. 20 

EARS—About five inches long, thin, well laced on tips, 
and as far down outside edges as possible ; good color 

inside and outside and well set on. 10 

EYES—Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold. 10 

EEGS AND FEET—Forefeet and legs long, straight, 
slender, well colored and free from white bars ; hindfeet 

as well colored as possible. 10 

SIZE—About eight pounds. 5 

CONDITION—Not fat but flesh firm like a race horse 

and good quality of fur. 5 

WITHOUT DEWEAP—. 5 

TOTAE. Too 

DISQUAEIFICATIONS—1. Eopped or fallen ear or ears. 

2. White front feet or white bar or bars on same. 3. De¬ 
cidedly wry front feet. 4. Wry tail. A specimen should 
have the benefit of any doubt. 


Rich golden tan is considered the best description of color. 













LANGLEY'S 

UNEQUALED 

Rabbit Condition 
Powder 

This condiment is indispensable to every rabbitry. It imparts 
health and vigor to rabbits thus preventing the ordinary diseases to 
which they are subject. It is based on the formula of a popular English 
preparation, varied to meet American requirements. It promotes the 
appetite, aids digestion and gives a natural gloss to the coat. A perfectly 
safe tonic at all times. It is easier to prevent disease than to cure it. 

25c. packages contains 100 doses. If ordered by mail, enclose 8c. 
extra for postage. 

LANGLEY & CO. 

310 West First St., Los Angeles 




TESTIMONIALS 


Los Angeles, Cal. , Feb. 26,1900. 
Messrs. Langley & Co. 

A few days ago one of my most valuable 
does appeared quite ill. Her breathing 
was difficult, she refused to eat, and was 
in many ways sadly out of condition. 
Having just lost a $75 buck that had 
shown the same symptoms, I was verj’ 
anxious about the doe. I tried your Con¬ 
dition Powder, and in five or six days she 
came out all right. I have also used it with 
excellent results with other rabbits. I 
most cheerfully recommend your com¬ 
pound. J. D. Vertrees, 

1131 Angelina st. 


Los Angeles, Cal., Mar. 17, 1900. 
Langley & Co. 

Dear Sirs : I am pleased to recommend 
3 'our Condition powder, as it will do all 
that is claimed for it. I gave it to several 
of my imported rabbits that were badly 
shaken up by their long journey from 
England—Lord Roseberry especially. I 
continued to feed it to all my stock and 
they are now in perfect health and condi¬ 
tion. W. Stansfield, 

122 S. Bunker Hill Ave. 


California Belgian Hare Association 

CAPITAL STOCK $ 25 , 000 , 

DIRECTORS 

F. W. Van Sicklin Mrs. Abbie E. Krebs 

R. B. Mitchell G. H. Mastick 

W. M. Rank 


Our stud is led by that famous animal 

Wantage Fox 

Score 96 Fee $50 

For whom more money was paid than any other Belgian Hare on earth. 

“On January i, 1901, we will pay $500 in gold coin for the best specimen 
sired by our Wantage Fox and out of any doe bred to him after April 24, 
1900. Competitors to select the judges. 

(Signed) California Belgian Hare Association.” 


We have a large list of yonngsters direct from 

LORD BRITAIN CHAMPION DASH 
LORD LURGAN YUKON BANBURY 
CHAMPION FASHODA, ETC. 

We are agents for all of 

KNIGHT’S ENGLISH REMEDIES 

Conceded by all to be the very best rabbit remedies known. Also Langley’s 
unequaled Rabbit Condition Powder, indispensable to every high class 
rabbitry. 


GEO. A. YOUNG, Mgr., ALAMEDA, CAL. 






SALESROOM OF CALIFORNIA BELGIAN HARE ASSOCIATION. LARGEST IN THE WORLD 









































